Jason Atherton Basks at the Top of the Food Chain amidst Staggering Culinary Economy

By Evans Momodu
2 minute read


Jason Atherton, a prominent name in the culinary world, has defied industry challenges by opening five new restaurants in 2024, even as several top chefs have shuttered theirs due to rising costs, staffing shortages, and changing consumer habits.

Atherton, known for his resilience and adaptability, attributes his success to calculated risks, renegotiating supplier contracts weekly, and creatively reusing resources to keep costs low.

Atherton acknowledges the downturn in hospitality, with renowned chefs like Marcus Wareing, Michel Roux Jr., and Monica Galetti closing restaurants. He emphasizes that opportunities still exist for those willing to adapt, citing favorable deals on rents for failed sites.

Lessons from Failure

Atherton is no stranger to setbacks, candidly discussing the £3.2 million loss on his upscale Japanese restaurant, Sosharu. These experiences have shaped his pragmatic approach, treating failures as learning opportunities to refine his business strategies.

The chef also noted the evolution of the workforce, highlighting the need to adapt management styles to engage younger employees.

His kitchens now offer flexible contracts to support work-life balance, a stark contrast to the grueling 16-hour shifts of his early career.

Atherton's new ventures range from affordable options like a £16.50 burger at Mary’s to his final fine dining project, Row on 5, where a 15-course meal will cost around £200 per head.

He acknowledged the challenges of sustaining high-end dining in a saturated market but is determined to "give it his best shot" with his flagship establishment.

A Transition in the Making

As he prepares for life beyond the kitchen, Atherton is mentoring Spencer Metzger, a rising star in the culinary world, potentially setting him up to take the reins.

For Atherton, the launch of Row on 5 represents both a culmination of his career and his last foray into fine dining.

Despite the turbulence in hospitality, Atherton’s story is one of perseverance, adaptability, and a drive to leave a lasting legacy.
Source: Sky news